how to make a Japanese hakama (with a-symmetrical pleats)?

1. measure and cut the fabric, following the technical drawing. before cutting add 1cm for the seams and hems to all parts.

technicle drawing for measurements and pleats

2. pin the crotch and cut it.

pinning the crotch

3. all parts cut, ready to put together.

all parts

4. Stitch the ribbons for the front-part together, so you have 1 long ribbon.

1 long ribbon

5. double-up the ribbons for the back-part in the length, also close 1 side of each ribbon, turn inside-out and stitch on the middle of the ribbons all across the length of them.

double-up the ribbons
finished ribbons

6. hem the bottom of each leg.

hemmed bottom

7. Stitch the crotch, first with the wrongs sides of the fabric together, cut the excess off, then stitch it with the wright sides of the fabric together.

wrong side together
wright side together

8. stitch the sides of the legs together, but leave a split from 26cm on the topside. hem the splits.

sides stiched
splits hemmed

9. make the pleats on both front and backside, according the technical drawing by step 1.

pleats front
pleats back

10. stitch the front-ribbon to the wrong side of the fabric to the front of the hakama and the back-piece onto the wright side of the fabric to the back of the hakama.

pleats and ribbon together
pleats and back-piece together

11. close the ribbons and the side and along the long part till you get to the hakama, turn the ribbons inside-out, pin 1 cm to the inside and against the fabric of the hakama and stitch it in place. then stitch in the middle across the whole length of the ribbon.

doubled-up ribbon
pinned ribbon
stitched ribbon
finished ribbon

12. fold the back-piece double, add the little parts and the ribbons at the side of it. sew it by hand, first the sides on the inside of the hakama, then the sides and the bottom at the outside.

pinned back-piece
sides at the inside hand-sewn
outside hand-sewn

13. finished hakama.

front
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